Here's the first layer of the first side of the first blade. While there will be no more 'shaping' on this blade, there will be a fair bit of trimming and sanding between layers.
Can a vehicle be built which can go directly downwind, faster than the wind (DDWFTTW), powered only by the wind, steady state? Thin Air Designs, in collaboration with the San Jose State University Aero department, along with generous corporate sponsors intend to definitively answer this question. Follow our quest.
Monday, December 21, 2009
The first of many
We've now started the rather long and rather laborious process of adding layer after layer of glass to each side of the propeller blades. We're going one layer at 0degrees and then one at 30d and one at 60d.
Here's the first layer of the first side of the first blade. While there will be no more 'shaping' on this blade, there will be a fair bit of trimming and sanding between layers.

Here's the first layer of the first side of the first blade. While there will be no more 'shaping' on this blade, there will be a fair bit of trimming and sanding between layers.
No, it won't make the Honda Insight go DDWFTTW
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Rick got the tapered aluminum spar extension (formerly a ski pole) glued into the carbon spar bushing and the final sections bonded. A bit of filling and sanding and we're ready for glass.
We learned today that for some reason, the glass fabric that we've had on order for a week or so was not shipped. A bit of a delay that we weren't expecting.

We learned today that for some reason, the glass fabric that we've had on order for a week or so was not shipped. A bit of a delay that we weren't expecting.

Sunday, December 13, 2009
Just another Silicon Valley garage project
For the next phase (assembly and layup of the prop) we've had to move venues. With what we've got going at work right now, we don't have the space in the lab to leave the assembly fixures up for a week or so straight. We moved to Rick's garage for a bit.
Here are the first 5 segments evened up and glued. As you can see, the carbon spar ends at this juncture and there is a tapered aluminum spar which goes inside the carbon and continues on out through the smaller sections.
The holes you see along the top of the airfoil are where we poured the resin to saturate the spar/foam interface. The binder clip hold the trailing edge nice and even while the resin cures.
Here are the first 5 segments evened up and glued. As you can see, the carbon spar ends at this juncture and there is a tapered aluminum spar which goes inside the carbon and continues on out through the smaller sections.
The holes you see along the top of the airfoil are where we poured the resin to saturate the spar/foam interface. The binder clip hold the trailing edge nice and even while the resin cures.
Saturday, December 12, 2009
Nothing sticks
Monday, December 7, 2009
Practice makes ... incremental improvements
We put in a rather short day yesterday and did a bit of cutting practice on cheap construction foam. We had to glue two layers together for some because our pink foam is only 2" think.
We're hoping that we can get our cutting skills up to par before we throw down on the $250 chunks of blue foam.
Here's a root section and a section from about 2/3rds of the way out.

We're hoping that we can get our cutting skills up to par before we throw down on the $250 chunks of blue foam.
Here's a root section and a section from about 2/3rds of the way out.

Saturday, December 5, 2009
First look
All in the family
Smooth around the edges
The airfoil templates will guide the hot wire through the foam core section. The thin wire tends to catch on the fiberous edges of the plywood and if the wire pauses against the ply for even a moment, it will burn a groove in the wood.
You can make templates out of phenolic sheet or other dense and heat resistant materials, but we don't expect to use these particular templates more than once so we went the cheap route.
I sanded the edges with 600grit sandpaper and then trimmed them out with aluminum tape from the HVAC supply. The wire slides much better and a pause won't burn a groove nearly as fast. It's not perfect, but it's darn affordable.

You can make templates out of phenolic sheet or other dense and heat resistant materials, but we don't expect to use these particular templates more than once so we went the cheap route.
I sanded the edges with 600grit sandpaper and then trimmed them out with aluminum tape from the HVAC supply. The wire slides much better and a pause won't burn a groove nearly as fast. It's not perfect, but it's darn affordable.
Friday, December 4, 2009
Rick sent me a few profiles to post.
These are based on a 450lb vehicle/pilot weight. A Crr of .02. Frontal area of 20sf and a Cd of .3. Transmission efficiency of .8 and the prop thrust numbers from JavaProp.
We believe we can do better on some of those above numbers, but also we don't expect the prop to ever be quite as good as theoretical. In the end we think we can get quite close to the below.

These are based on a 450lb vehicle/pilot weight. A Crr of .02. Frontal area of 20sf and a Cd of .3. Transmission efficiency of .8 and the prop thrust numbers from JavaProp.
We believe we can do better on some of those above numbers, but also we don't expect the prop to ever be quite as good as theoretical. In the end we think we can get quite close to the below.

Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Where's Waldo?
Monday, November 30, 2009
Occasionally something turns out to be easy
We've been a bit concerned about how easy (or hard) it was going to be to get our foam accurately cut to fit our spars. As previously mentioned our spars are tapered carbon windsurfing masts and while these make almost perfect structural members for our prop, we were unsure as to how accurate we could mate the foam sections.
After laying out our build table with all the template positions, we transfered those marks to our spars and calipered the cones at those locations. We then made up a set of test templates designed to produce a hole in the foam to mate to the conical spar. If after the cut, the foam slid on too far or not far enough, we would then employ the method of cutting the blocks long and trimming them to length after the hole was cut. Rick had a far higher confidence than I that the foam would stop right on the mark when we slid it on.
Rick made a 'foam drill' from a piece of thin wall tubing and I modified the hot wire bow to allow the wire to quickly connect and disconnect. We threw the templates on a scrap of foam, drilled the pilot hole and pulled the wire from the cutter through the pilot.
After hot wire cutting out the plug we put it on the spar and it slid right to a stop on the mark. One less complication to worry about. We will cut our blocks to length and wire cut the airfoil and the spar hole in one operation.
Here's a shot of our test insertion.

After laying out our build table with all the template positions, we transfered those marks to our spars and calipered the cones at those locations. We then made up a set of test templates designed to produce a hole in the foam to mate to the conical spar. If after the cut, the foam slid on too far or not far enough, we would then employ the method of cutting the blocks long and trimming them to length after the hole was cut. Rick had a far higher confidence than I that the foam would stop right on the mark when we slid it on.
Rick made a 'foam drill' from a piece of thin wall tubing and I modified the hot wire bow to allow the wire to quickly connect and disconnect. We threw the templates on a scrap of foam, drilled the pilot hole and pulled the wire from the cutter through the pilot.
After hot wire cutting out the plug we put it on the spar and it slid right to a stop on the mark. One less complication to worry about. We will cut our blocks to length and wire cut the airfoil and the spar hole in one operation.
Here's a shot of our test insertion.
Scott Nix donated two more masts
The team would like to thank local windsurfer Scott Nix for donating two carbon windsurfing masts to the cause. These two are particularly nicely matched, and will likely be used as spars for prop #2 in the reasonably likely event that our first effort comes out looking and working like a first effort.
Thanks Scott!
Thanks Scott!
Sunday, November 29, 2009
The plots thicken
Here are some 2D and 3D plots of our first production propeller design.
Though we have allowed room on the cart for a 20ft prop, this one is a 16ft. The windsurfing masts that we are using for spars allow for a very clean and simple 16 footer without needing any extensions at the root so we're going the easy route first round.
It's likely that we'll build more than just this first one. We'll put this one on the test stand and dyno, document it's actual performance curves, compare them to the theoretical and decide whether it deserves an actual test on the cart.
If we're careful enough during construction we might just pull it off with one, but as we've never built a prop of this size before, we're learning as we go. Both construction wise and performance wise we'll use what we learn on this one to improve round 2 if needed.

Though we have allowed room on the cart for a 20ft prop, this one is a 16ft. The windsurfing masts that we are using for spars allow for a very clean and simple 16 footer without needing any extensions at the root so we're going the easy route first round.
It's likely that we'll build more than just this first one. We'll put this one on the test stand and dyno, document it's actual performance curves, compare them to the theoretical and decide whether it deserves an actual test on the cart.
If we're careful enough during construction we might just pull it off with one, but as we've never built a prop of this size before, we're learning as we go. Both construction wise and performance wise we'll use what we learn on this one to improve round 2 if needed.

Saturday, November 28, 2009
Religious symbols
Well, it's one thing to design a propeller -- it's another thing entirely to figure out how to get the design templates to print out properly and to scale.
We finally imported the points into my CAD program as survey data and faked it into drawing a line between all the points as if it were drawing contour lines on a topo map. Four hours (and countless sheets of 11 x 17 paper later) we finally figured out how to get it all scaling and printing.
We ran out a couple samples, glued them to our template material and whacked away on them to see what we thought. I think we'll be pretty happy once we get them sanded perfectly.
The tabs you see on the templates will sit on blocks located on our build table to get the alignment and twist correct.

We finally imported the points into my CAD program as survey data and faked it into drawing a line between all the points as if it were drawing contour lines on a topo map. Four hours (and countless sheets of 11 x 17 paper later) we finally figured out how to get it all scaling and printing.
We ran out a couple samples, glued them to our template material and whacked away on them to see what we thought. I think we'll be pretty happy once we get them sanded perfectly.
The tabs you see on the templates will sit on blocks located on our build table to get the alignment and twist correct.
Friday, November 27, 2009
A table for 2x
We've spent the last couple weeks working on our prop design. Rick's got a good handle on that now and we are close to starting construction on the template/ribs/etc. We'll post up some of the airfoil and performance plots in a bit.
Today we spent the day making up our build table. It has to be very straight and square so we can put our reference lines on it and also bolt guides to it etc.
Rick came up with a slick little set of adjustable braces that allow us to take any twist out of the table and still let us fold it up and put it against the wall when we aren't using it.
Here is Rick putting the last screws in the piano hinges before we put the legs on and turn the table over.
Table on it's feet for the first time.
A close up of the little adjustment bracket that I milled slots in. Loosen the wing nuts and slide the triangles relative to each other and the top twists/untwists.
Today we spent the day making up our build table. It has to be very straight and square so we can put our reference lines on it and also bolt guides to it etc.
Rick came up with a slick little set of adjustable braces that allow us to take any twist out of the table and still let us fold it up and put it against the wall when we aren't using it.
Here is Rick putting the last screws in the piano hinges before we put the legs on and turn the table over.
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